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Patternmaking in Fashion, by Lucia Mors de Castro
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Off-the-peg too bland or doesn't fit? Made-to-measure too expensive?
Then why not do it yourself?
This volume explains the nitty-gritty of basic patternmaking, laying the essential foundations for anyone taking their first steps in tailoring and dressmaking. Four fundamental garments skirt, dress, jacket and coat are used to explain patterns step by step, with clear sequences of photographs and descriptions. Gradually, the reader is enabled to tackle ever-increasing complexity in patternmaking, moving toward such activities as customizing, the creative adaptation of basic models, and deriving patterns from pictures.
- Sales Rank: #497255 in Books
- Published on: 2009-11-01
- Original language: German, English, French
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.00" h x 7.50" w x .25" l, .97 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 104 pages
About the Author
Lucia Mors took her first steps at Vivienne Westwood s Studio. Since then, she has earned a degree in fashion design at the Meisterschule f�r Mode, Munich, and added to her resume with two shoe collections for the Selve brand, while gathering experience as head of the pattern-design department of the Misericordia fair-trade company in Peru. Currently, she is continuing her studies at the Academy of Arts in Berlin, determined to give fashion a true element of social conscience.
Most helpful customer reviews
161 of 162 people found the following review helpful.
Not so basic but a GREAT value anyway
By Kathleen Fasanella
In preparation to write a more comprehensive review of this text for my site, I came to Amazon to see what others had said -but alas, no one had. How odd.
Context: I've been making patterns in the industry for nearly 3 decades, I'm also an author, run the most popular site on the internet for people who want to start a clothing line and do a lot of training in production pattern making. Because I collect pattern making books, I had to get this one. To be sure, I was put off by the low price (I admit to equating value with price) but figured $10 wasn't much of a risk with free shipping.
I have to tell you, this is not a bad buy, why are people selling used copies? I should qualify that. You should not expect to be able to cut whatever style strikes your fancy after using this book, it will not do that. I also wouldn't describe it as "Basic". Some of the styles within are quite complex and would be challenging for beginners but fun for intermediate pattern makers or those with a knack for it willing to exercise a bit of perseverance.
The value for beginners is drafting a fitting shell. For kindred with more experience, it has the *only* instruction I've seen in *modern* books on how to draft a sleeve appropriate to the range of motion. Most pattern books show the front and back of the sleeve as being close to mirror images. This one isn't like that. The back side of the sleeve cap is longer and more gently sloped. The front is curvier, cupping at the armscye. In my biased but qualified opinion, I think the sleeve drafting portion alone justifies the cost of the book.
Downsides: Altho it is a plus that the text is in English, French and German, some of the translations are puzzling. For example, I know well what "collar" means. What I don't understand is how "collar" is used as a given point of measure within the text. I haven't actually done any of the drafts to know (at which point it would become apparent) but the definition of collar isn't something one should be puzzled about.
Readability: a bit more care would improve readability, say, indenting the beginning of paragraphs. In places the text seems dense (the proverbial wall of text) but that may not bother you. Another issue is font size within the drafts themselves. If you're an old fart like me, you'll need reading glasses.
Pluses: While a paperback book, the binding is stitched rather than perfect bound. This means you can weight it open and the binding won't break. I love the paper quality, it feels rich. Thick and dense enough that you don't get ghosted impressions from opposing pages. It also has a dust cover. This was not a cheap print job.
My fear is that this book hasn't sold well and will go out of print. Perhaps worse, the publisher won't consider it cost effective to print other titles similar to it. That would be a big shame. I would very much like to see this author and publisher to put out more books like this.
Note: I don't know anything about this author so I can't speak to where this comes from but it is obvious to me that the drafting style is German. That my friends is a very good thing. I don't know if the author was trained in Germany or learned from a German instructor or even whether the illustration style and organization originated with the German publisher but like I said, it's a good thing. Of all the pattern texts, the German books are the most expensive and by a lot. With the exchange rate and shipping, a German drafting book can set you back $300. Even I don't have one (beyond WW2 and earlier) and that's saying something.
Germans have zero style reputation but their pattern engineering skills are arguably the best in the world. Yes, better than French and Italian. It would be a pity if this German publisher were compelled to cease investing in books for the English speaking market because this book didn't sell.
27 of 28 people found the following review helpful.
Very Sound Guide to Pattern Making, however...
By Kate in New York
A quick note: The book is beautifully photographed and is much more streamlined than many other pattern making books.
Read directions carefully, and realize that where it says "cut" the instructions may be indicating "draw". The illustrations are helpful, making it easier to understand what the translations are indicating. Such a nice book. For the next edition a native English speaker familiar with pattern making [there are many of us!] ought to be a proof-reader. Unlike Armstrong or other pattern making books which attempt to be an encyclopedia of drafting techniques, "Basic Patternmaking in Fashion" provides a step-by-step explanation of pattern drafting for the garments illustrated and photographed in the text.
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
Great Book!
By Bsad
I love this book so much. It tells you the regions of the body needed to make accurate patterns, and it includes some basic projects to help you get a feel for what you are doing. As a beginner, I found that the book provided me with information that I would otherwise not know. This book is a great addition to my library of books. If looking for a book that clearly states ways of measuring someone (including pictures) and pattern making "short hand" and the things they stand for, then this is the book for you!
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